Water pressure is often a problem in residential settings, and sometimes high pressure can cause serious problems like broken pipes, damaged water-based appliances, and even injuries to homeowners dealing with a high-pressure situation.

The basic issue is simple: municipal water systems deliver water at much higher levels of pressure necessary for the average home so there is enough water pressure in the main lines to feed the needs of the fire department at hydrants and in high-rise apartment buildings where the elevation may decrease water flow. This only makes sense.

That’s one reason most homes are equipped with a Water Pressure Reducing Valve. These valves, however, also act as pressure regulating valves that do their best to keep the water pressure within the home on an even keel. Most municipal water systems can deliver water at 200 psi, and a pressure reducing valve is often required if the system psi exceeds 80 psi. A typical home needs something less than 50 psi for normal operation. These water pressure reducing valves will also save money because the higher the pressure, the more water is running through the pipe and fixture: e.g. twice as much water will flow through at 150 psi than at 50 psi. This also reduces the amount of wastewater that is introduced to the local wastewater system, which is a benefit to the community at large.

Water pressure reducing valves are deceptively simple devices. Typically, they involve a spring and a diaphragm connected to a pintle (a pin or bolt) that regulates water flow. The spring is adjustable and is set at the desired pressure and the diaphragm acts as an equilibrium force that readjusts the spring depending on the incoming pressure. 

Like everything mechanical, water pressure reducing valves can and do wear out and it is a good idea to monitor the water pressure within a home to ensure everything is ship-shape. Not all homes are equipped with them, however, and it’s probably a good idea to have that checked if there are high pressure problems. The pipes might bang and shake with too much pressure, and it can be noticed in the volume of water and its velocity (pressure) coming out of the spigot.

As stated earlier, too-high water pressure can damage pipes, causing them to burst which is never a good thing. But even moderately high pressure that doesn’t bang the pies around isn’t good for such water appliances as washing machines and dishwashers as it can more easily burst those water connector hoses and joints, as well as the tumblers, spinners and spray jets inside the machines. This could cause a breakdown, of course, but it can also simply shorten the life of the appliance.

Of course, too-low water pressure is a problem of another kind, as it disrupts lifestyle and makes water-based appliances and sprinkler systems to work at inadequate levels. A qualified, licensed plumber can measure the4 exact water pressure in a home and make the necessary recommendations to adjust that pressure to the optimal level for safety, savings and lifestyle protection – including installing or replacing a proper Water Pressure Reducing Valve when the situation calls for it.

For all of your home plumbing needs, including water pressure monitoring and adjustments, call on the professionals at Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver. Serving the greater metro Denver area for nearly 35 years, this family owned company is renowned for its high-quality customer service and expert plumbing skills. Call 866-PUNCTUAL for complete details.

With the advent of such superstores as Home Depot and Lowes, the whole idea of Do-It-Yourself (DIY) has really taken hold in America. With slogans like “You Can Do It. We Can Help,” and in-store classes on everything from drywall installation to electrical upgrades – everything, really, including the kitchen sink – everyone, it seems, is intent on saving money and proving themselves as a competent handyman.

Nothing wrong with that, really – in concept. The truth is, however, that real professionals of nearly every stripe, from remodelers and electricians, to masons and plumbers know all too well that fully 50% of their calls come from DIYers who have hit a snag, or worse have made matters more problematic than they otherwise might have been.

Nowhere is this more true than in bathrooms. It seems so simple: take out the old vanity, replace it, put in new sink and fixtures and under-sink pipes, replace the toilet to match the new sink, and while you’re at it get a new tub or tub/shower configuration and make them all more modern, more sleek, more shiny. Why not two sinks, his and hers? Or duel shower heads? Hey, the plumbing and all the other stuff is in there, so it’s just a matter of following the general outlines and upgrade to the newer stuff, right?

Okay. It can be done, and there can be some savings realized. Even professionals know that a fairly competent layperson can – eventually – figure it all out and get the new bathroom of their dreams.

However, the bathroom is a particularly complicated environment, with drains and pipes and fixtures, all in close proximity to electrical outlets and lighting systems that, under new codes, require special breakers. And DIYers inevitably find such additional issues as unseen leaks and water damage that have to be repaired and replaced before anything new can be undertaken. Also, especially with older homes, drains might not be able to handle the extra supply in new fixtures, and older pipes might not be up to modern-day codes and fittings which will require modifications.

Here at Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver we know the pitfalls of DIY bathroom projects because we get called in to fix and finish a project underway or rescue the would-be handyman from the conundrum he or she has found themselves in.

The issues involved are varied – can’t make the pipes fit without leaks; the toilet doesn’t fit the space from old one; running additional pipe for the dual sink or showerheads causes the water pressure to drop; the drains back up with the increase in volume; the power circuit blew out and refuses to reset.

But the biggest issue – nearly always – is what we have come to call the Honey-Don’t: the project has taken so long, and isn’t anywhere near being finished, that the spouse of the handyman has had enough. What may have been a money-savings gesture has turned into a lifestyle alteration, and it is best to get it finished – properly – and get the new bathroom back in service.

Ben Franklin plumbers – all fully licensed – arrive at these jobs in trucks that are traveling plumbing shops, so in almost every case the parts, fittings and even the fixtures are right there. No extra trips back to the hardware store or plumbing supply shop, so the job is finished economically and, most important, on time.

It’s not that the average guy or gal can’t complete a DIY project. The point is that plumbing issues in a bathroom are best handled by a professional, whose work is guaranteed, done up to code, and ready for its new life as that dream bathroom.

For all of your plumbing needs  – from new bathrooms, minor repairs, sewers systems, even kitchen and bathroom remodels;  the works – call on the professionals of Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver, serving the greater Denver metro area since 1978 with quality plumbing services at competitive prices. This family owned business has a vast list of repeat and long-time customers – testament to the quality work and customer service built up for nearly 35 years. Call 866-PUNCTUAL for complete details.  

Plumbing is easy, a friend of a customer’s told them recently, right after the friend created an even bigger mess and just before they called us. We simply put things right and then pointed out that if plumbing was so easy, how do you explain the preponderance of plumbers?

Plumbing isn’t difficult – if you have years of study and training. However, the everyday non-plumber homeowner can help out — a lot — by understanding that many of the things said about plumbing are simply myths. Here’s a few of those myths, and the better alternatives:

Tank cleaners. You’ve seen the ads on TV and the displays at the store for the labor-saving in-tank toilet cleaners that purport to clean your toilet with every flush. Save you money. First of all, they do seem to clean the toilet because the harsh chemicals involve can bleach the porcelain and make it look clean. It isn’t. It is simply a mask that colors the build-up of waste that will eventually ruin the toilet.

Take our advice: put a little white vinegar in the overflow tank about once a week. The vinegar will help remove the grimy build-up and the smell, and it costs a lot less than the in-tank “cleaners.” Also, a little elbow grease on a regular basis is also recommended.

Running water while the disposal runs. Yeah, you don’t want to run the disposer dry, but putting the debris in the disposer and then running water over it when the machine is running won’t necessarily wash all that debris down the drain. The best solution is to fill the sink and the drain with water first, allowing the debris to be suspended in more liquid before the machine turns on will eliminate more or the waste and keep your pipes and drains cleaner and more open.

Lemons in the disposal. While we’re on the subject of the kitchen disposer, it is a common myth that putting lemons, peel and all, in there will keep it smelling fresh and working smoothly. It’ll make it smell lemon-y for while, to be sure, but the citric acid in the leomns can corrode the pipes and all that lemon is stringy and harder on the machine and pipes. We plumbers recommend putting ice down there: it acts much in the same way as a rock tumbler polishes a rough stone. The ice will power wash the inside of the disposer and the blades, and rather than mask smells, it will eliminate the cause of the odor.

Out of sight, out of mind. Just because stuff goes down the drain doesn’t mean that it is gone. You can flush to your heart’s content and not get some stuff to go through all the bends. And some things, like bread, pasta, rice, and beans will swell once they are down there and cause even more blockages.

Obviously, it’s better not to put these types of things down drains in the first place, but if possible fill the basins with water before you drain so there is more of a stream. You have a better chance of getting rid of it as part of the flush rather than the object of a drain flush. Also, in showers and tubs it’s a good idea to have a hair trap, a screen device, in the drain to catch all that extraneous hair. Then from time to time you can clean the screen out easily. 

A bar of soap on the sink. A lot of people keep a bar of soap right there on the side of the sink rather than in a soap dish. It’s not a good idea. Water, soap suds, soap scum and toothpaste can, believe it or not, damage sinks and especially fixtures, eventually making them corrode. Keep the soap in a dish, and each time you use the sink for hand washing or brushing the teeth, just give the sink and fixture a good wipe. 

Lifetime warranties. A lot of people buy plumbing accessories – faucets, basins, drains, toilets, sprayers, and the like – because the package says it is guaranteed for life. If it breaks down, getting a refund or replacement will be more difficult than you think, but the fact is that if it’s cheap to begin with it will remain cheap. Giving it a “lifetime warranty” doesn’t make a bad piece of equipment better; it only sounds good. Better to simply buy a better product to begin with – it the long run it will last longer and operate more easily and efficiently, which is actually a lower cost in both money and lifestyle interruptions.

Water pressure monitors are reliable. Many people buy water pressure monitors thinking they help them avoid a costly problem down the road. Most homes don’t need them because most water utilities maintain proper water pressure and have gauges on the pipes coming into the home. Also, these water pressure gauges are notoriously unreliable in any case – missing too-high pressure or offering false reads. Water pressure in a home is one of those things that is relatively easy to monitor – you’ll know if it suddenly starts to be too low or too high and then your best bet is to call a plumber.    

Plumbing fixtures are rough and tough and low maintenance. Not really. The plumbing system in a home, particularly the fixtures, is a dynamic system and as such is subject to wear and tear. Stuff happens. But also true: that little used toilet in the spare bedroom is fine because it’s never used. In this case the lack of use can allow the p-trap to evaporate and allow odorous sewer gas to come into the house. Better to check you water appliances and fixtures – sinks, drains, toilets, water heaters – for signs of leaks or wear from time to time to prevent a problem before it happens. As for the little-used fixtures, drop by every few days and give that toilet a flush, and run some water down the drain.

User manuals are not useful. When you get a dishwasher, washing machine, disposer, fixture or anything really, they come with user manuals for a reason – and it’s not just so the manufacturer’s lawyers have something to do. You make think you know how to operate these devices – after all, you’ve been doing it all of your life – but the user’s manual contains very helpful information that can help avoid problems and even protect warranties. For instance: what not to put down the disposer, how to properly clean the product, and much more. Recently a customer with a new dishwasher noticed in her user’s manual that the use of Lemon detergent – her favorite — was not recommended. She switched and probably added life to her machine. Also, manuals contain information – and regular stuff – that could void warranties (that’s why lawyers write them!).  Read the manual. Keep it handy.

Any plumber is the phone book or online knows the job.  Unfortunately, not true. You have your licensed plumbers and your experienced plumbers, but they are not necessarily the same person. When you hire a plumber, check to see if they are licensed, check the Better Business Bureau for recommendations (good and bad), and ask for – and check – references. If they are great plumbers they will gladly supply all this information.

We here at Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver are great plumbers – both licensed and experienced. This family-owned business has been serving the Denver metro area since the late 1970s (founded as Deer Creek Plumbing) and in that time we have successfully tackled just about every plumbing job large and small for homeowners all over the area. For complete details call 1-866-PUNCTUAL and 303-340-3400.

Environmental consciousness, the “going green” movement, is now a very complex – and very popular – development in American society and it focuses a lot on things like solar energy, recycling, LEEDS certification for building practices and even with high gas mileage being offered on a wide variety of newer automobiles. “Green” is everywhere and one of the best places a homeowner can look for increased consciousness — and significant money savings – is in green plumbing.

The great thing about “going green” with plumbing is that pretty much everybody can be happy: no matter what political persuasion one adheres to or espouses, saving “green,” as in money, is a common goal, and many of the green-plumbing initiatives go beyond economics and right into water and energy preservation, and water and air quality as well. Green plumbing is a classic win/win proposition.

Water-based appliances and fixtures in the home can be and often are the sources of significant energy use and also significant water use and over-use – both areas where green plumbing can save any homeowner money. Some green plumbing steps are relatively easy and inexpensive procedures that homeowners themselves can take, and others run the gamut in professional intervention and initial cost. As with anything, every individual has to assess their own desires, requirements and tolerances for such initiatives, however information is the universal starting point.

Here at Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver, we know all about green plumbing and are very experienced in assessing one’s “green” compliance level and the potential benefits. We are also experts in professionally installing and implementing green plumbing changes or upgrades in any home.

Here’s a look at the most “green” plumbing ideas every homeowner should consider.

Leaks. Wasting water through leaks and drips not only unnecessarily washes away a precious resource, it costs a homeowner extra money a water bill and also can lead directly to water damage and expensive repairs. Toilets are the worse culprits – a “running” toilet can waste up to 200 gallons of water every day. Plus, a nagging drip, drip, drip in a faucet or shower head goes through a lot of water, and sprinkler systems often have unseen leaks underground that can add significantly to a water bill. There are a variety of home leak monitoring systems, ranging from relatively inexpensive passive systems or whole-house systems, but for most homes simply looking for the telltale signs – whooshing water sounds, wet spots underneath sinks and basins, water on the floor in the basement – is probably enough.

Insulated pipes. Cold pipes represent a ton of heat loss and, of course, if they freeze there are more severe problems. Insulating pipes, particularly those close to an outside wall, will save the pipes and save energy in the water-heater bill.

Low-flow toilets and faucets. Low-flow toilets got a bad reputation when they first came onto the market several years ago for operating poorly, often requiring two flushes thus negating the benefit. The newer ones are not like that – they work great and have a powerful flush. They just use less water: about 3.7 gallons of water per flush as compared to 5 gallons in a regular toilet. These low-flow toilets also fill faster, an added benefit. For faucets, look for low-flow shower heads – which can cut water usage (and hot-water usage) from 50% to 75%. Also, install flow restrictors on the faucets in the bathrooms and kitchen – you’ll still get the water you need for brushing or washing, but will waste less.

Energy efficient appliances. Newer dishwashers, water heaters and washing machines are much more efficient than models from only a few years ago, saving a ton in energy costs. To stay even more “green” always clean dishes and clothes with full loads – and experts advise that front-loading washing machines use far less water and energy than top-loading models, all the while cleaning as well or even better. When shopping for appliances check the Energy Star approval ratings to discover the potential savings.

Water heaters. Water heaters deserve their own mention because there are a few-energy-saving and water-saving options. Obviously, a gas-powered water heater is better than an electric one in that natural gas costs far less than electricity. Also, the newer Energy Star hot water heaters are far more efficient than older models, and if you have a hot water heater that is 10 years old or more it would be a good idea to get a new one. Another option – and here at Ben Franklin Plumbing we have excellent systems – think about the new tankless hot water heaters. They cost a little more initially, but these systems are about 98% efficient versus 62% efficient for tank-type gas hot water heaters, since they heat the water on-demand. If you get the right size tankless system for your home you can run multiple hot water users – dishwasher, washing machine and shower – at the same time and enjoy an endless supply of hot water. Ben Franklin Plumbing features an exclusive GOHot brand of tankless hot water systems.

Water filtration systems. Many people like filtered water for drinking, cooking, making coffee, and even in the shower (to reduce chlorine), and there are a myriad of options here. Systems can be installed on one faucet in a variety of fashions and costs, and there are whole-house options as well. Filtration and water purification removes chemicals and particulates and is good for health reasons, but it also means that the water is less harsh on such things as the water heater, dishwasher, washing machine and shower, extending the life of these important devices and fixtures.

Copper piping. Copper piping has been used for centuries for carrying and storing water and is the natural choice for home plumbing. Copper pipes are very long-lasting (they are generally guaranteed for 50 years) and maintenance-free.

Solar. Always a popular, if somewhat expensive, way to go “green,” solar hot water systems have been proven for decades to deliver a highly efficient supply of hot water that can save a bundle on energy costs. Helping on the cost are a variety of tax incentives for going solar, and often utility companies offer specific rebates on the cost and installation costs of such systems for energy efficiency.

If you want to go “green,” or simply want the “green-effect” on your wallet or pocketbook, green plumbing is one of the most direct ways of achieving that goal. Obviously, if you’re building a new home or doing some significant remodeling, incorporati9ng green plumbing techniques right from the start is the way to go. Many of the recommendations included here don’t cost more than non-green alternatives, so the pay-off will be felt right away.

For all of your plumbing needs – including all things “green” – looked to Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver, serving the greater metro area for 35 years with high-quality plumbing services. Call 1-866-PUNCTUAL and 303-340-3400 for completer details.  

Of all the modern marvels of home convenience that enhance a family’s lifestyle, perhaps the laundry room and its wonderful appliances is the most under-rated. After all, dishes can be washed by hand at the sink, and homes usually have more than one tub or shower to handle any downtime. But when the washing machine or dryer aren’t working, the only way to keep the family cleaned and clothed is a trip to the Laundromat, and the world of sacksful of quarters and endless waiting.

And work they do these washers and dryers. Statistics show that the average American family does between 5 and 7 loads of laundry each week, so it’s critical that everything is working properly.

Trouble is that since these machines get such a workout they are subject to periodic breakdowns, malfunctions and worse, like floods or even fires. However, with a few simple tasks, a little planning and a regular maintenance schedule can keep them working at peak performance.

Most people don’t give their laundry machines a second thought. It’s just sort the clothes, measure the detergents And softeners, push a button and go. And that’s as it should be. It can stay that way for a long time with a few simple steps. Here’s How to Keep Your Laundry Room Running Smoothly:

• Check the hoses. Both hot and cold water taps come into the laundry area, and then are attached to the washing machine typically with rubber hoses with screw-on connectors at each end. Rubber hoses are subject to wear and tear and can burst from time to time – not a good thing – so inspect these hoses for any signs of deterioration. Better yet replace them with flexible stainless steel hoses which are burst-proof and will last much longer, and they are available at most hardware or home improvement stores.
• Check the hose strainers. While you’re checking the hoses, there should be a mesh strainer/filter at either end of these hoses to trap sediment. Also available at hardware/home improvement stores, these very inexpensive strainers should be cleaned out from time to time. Simply shut the water off at the valves, remove and rinse the strainers, replace them, reconnect and turn the water back on.
• Check the drains. Washing machines, and wash tub sinks often nearby, obviously have drains, and they operated longer and freer of silt and buildup if they are equipped with strainers. These are inexpensive and usually the drop-in kind, so they are easy to remove and clean out.
• Regular drain maintenance. Pour in a clog-disintegrating product in the drains every month to keep the lines free of soap scum and lint. Also, to prevent odor from sewer gases entering the home from infrequently-used drains, pour a bucket of water down these drains once a week or so the keep the trap seal full.
• Try to stick to full loads. Even if you place a few items in the washer and hit the “small load” button, a lot of water goes through the cycle. Use less energy and put less strain on the machine with full loads. 
• Check the pipes. Periodically check the plumbing pipes feeding the washing machine for signs of leaks or corrosion. You’ll have to shut off the water at the main shut-off valve to do any maintenance on the pipes, or you could call a plumber. If these pipes are exposed to the cold (e.g. on an outside wall or in a crawl space), wrap them in insulation to keep them from freezing.
• Protect from flooding. Have a sensor valve installed where the water hookups attach to the washing machine hoses, and then run a sensor from them to the floor – there are several such devices on the market. When the floor sensor detects water it shuts off at the source and prevents a serious flood, and also sounds an alarm.
• Get a ventilator. Washing machines and dryers create a lot of moisture in an around the laundry, and a relatively inexpensive ventilator will help keep walls and floors dry, preventing mildew or material deterioration.
• Clean out the dryer lint traps. The lint trap inside the dryer is there for a reason, so each and every time you dry a load take it out and remove the lint. Also, dryers vent to the outdoors and lint builds up in the vent tube and outside where the air is release. Clean it all out periodically, say monthly, and every two years or so replace the vent tube.
• Check the electrical. Both the washer and dryer are, of course, plugged into an electrical outlet, and usually dryers are connected to a 220 circuit. Make sure these connections are up to code with the latest GFI outlets, and check the cords and the receptacles for signs of age and wear. Since you’re dealing with 220 and potential water hazards, best to call in an electrician if there are obvious signs of trouble.

For complete laundry room plumbing services – repairs, new installations, even remodeling – call on Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver, serving the community for over 30 years with fully licensed and expert plumbers. Call 1-866-PUNCTUAL for complete details.    

Invented over 150 years ago by a Massachusetts farmer, the French drain is an ingenious solution to the problems caused by standing water

DENVER, CO – In France, a popular choice for breakfast is bread dunked in a mixture of milk and egg and then placed on a griddle. Only, the French don’t call it French Toast like Americans do, but rather “old bread,” because they make it out of the leftovers from yesterday’s fresh baguette.

You’d think that same name reasoning would apply to the French Drain, but non, you’d be wrong. Guess again, mon ami. The French Drain has nothing Gallic about it, in fact, but it is an old and ingenious solution for homeowners experiencing standing water or improper rainwater diversion on their property,  or a basement that frequently floods, even a little.

A French drain is a relatively simple type of drain utilizing gravity to keep water from collecting in the wrong spot. This is a big problem for people whose homes are prone to collecting ground water, particularly around the foundation. Water retained here can and often does seep into the basement through the foundation, creating interior flooding issues, but even small amounts of water sitting next to the foundation over time can cause it to erode away.

The French drain gets its name from the inventor, Henry French, an American farmer from Massachusetts who was also a lawyer and once served the country as Assistant U.S. Treasury Secretary.  In 1859, French published a book called “Farm Drainage,” in which he described a new type of drain, and the basic principles he set down are still in use today.

For a long time, many people, particularly farmers, had troubles with water collecting in certain spots in fields and around structures, and they built trenches, or drains, to divert that water to another place. The trouble was, however, that silt would build up in the drain, clogging it. The innovation that French brought to this type of drain was the addition of rocks, or crush rock gravel, into the channel that acts as a sifter to filter out silt, leaves and debris, allowing the water to flow smoothly.    

The modern French drain, which is also called a drain tile or a perimeter drain system, involves the digging of a sloped trench, which is filled with gravel and often covered by a layer of sand. Many installations also include a plastic drain pipe with holes in it (the holes are covered with a mesh to prevent silt buildup). The trench is sloped away from the structure or the standing water, and then feeds to a lower spot where water buildup wouldn‘t be a problem, or it drains into the street or a city sewer system, or even to a sump filed where a sump pump can safely evacuate it. They can also be placed inside the structure, say around the perimeter of a basement, where excess water can be collected and then diverted away from the structure.

French drains are relatively easy to install in new construction, for obvious reasons, but are often put in place in existing structures where a water problem develops to divert water away from where it can cause damage. For this reason, a French drain is often installed in conjunction with foundation repair to save a home from further damage.

Modern homeowners experiencing water problems around their foundations or in the basement can look to a more than 150-year-old solution with a professionally designed and installed French drain. Then they can enjoy some French toast with the confidence that their drainage problems are over.

For all of your plumbing needs, including expert water damage diagnosis and French drain design and installations, call on the professionals at Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver, serving the Colorado Front Range area for nearly 35 years. For complete information phone 1-866-PUNCTUAL or Denver local at 303-340-3400. 

Clothes washers, like many modern conveniences, are marvels that make life easier, but it’s wised to keep an eye on the hoses and lint traps to prevent major plumbing problems

DENVER, CO – One of the marvels of modern technology that gives up a leg up on our grandparents is the automatic clothes washer. Oh, it’s been around for decades, of course, but it keeps getting better all the time, cleaning larger loads, offering more cleaning options, even becoming something of a home décor statement.

And while we have come to rely upon the washing machine as an everyday appliance in our lives, it’s surprising how often the machine is the subject of a call to the plumber.

Like everything else in our lives these days, the modern convenience represented by the clothes washer requires just a little ongoing maintenance by the homeowner to ensure that it operates properly. One of the most frequent problems people have with the washing machine, in fact, can cause serious damage to a home.

At Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver we get called out quite often, sometimes on an emergency basis, for a problem associated with the clothes washer, and for the most part it is an issue that can be avoided.

The most frequent problem associated with the washing machine is a leak in one of the water hoses that connects to the machine, and sometimes the leaks are more serious where the hose itself snaps and leads to a flood of the laundry area. When the laundry was in the basement this was a problem, but generally a smaller one as it left the damage isolated to a mostly work area. But today we find many laundry rooms on the upper floor of a home, closer to the dirty laundry and, of course, more convenient – but if a leak occurs or a hose bursts the damage can be extensive.

On most washing machines there are two rubber hoses – one for the cold water and one for the hot – that come from a dedicated water source and attach to the machine. These are usually attached at both ends by a screw-on hose connector, very similar to how a garden hose attaches to an outdoor faucet. These rubber hoses generally have a life-span of about five years, but use patterns and water quality can have an effect on longevity. They should be inspected periodically to see if there is any blistering or puckering, and replaced if necessary. It is a good idea to have ready access to the hoses and the water source (many people like to hide them as unsightly) so that the water can be shut-off in the event of a problem. They are very easy to replace.

Some people have opted to replace these rubber hoses with more durable, flexible metal hoses that look a little like the gas lines that attach to a stove. These can be purchased in any hardware store and should offer a longer lifespan than rubber.

Every washing machine will come with an owner’s manual which will include maintenance tips for that machine, and it is recommended that the owner read the manual and heed the tips. Aside from the hoses, the most frequent issue that arises with a clothes washer is a clogged machine or drain caused by lint. Most people are well aware of the lint traps that exist in the clothes dryer, but lint also builds up in washing machines. Every model is different, but somewhere there is a lint trap that needs to be cleaned out from time to time, and it is a good idea to inspect the drain periodically for the telltale signs of lint clogging up the works. Even a slow drain can cause a major problem if it can’t handle evacuating the gushing water coming from the machine after a wash or rinse cycle.

The good news is those modern washing machines are highly efficient, high energy efficient appliances that should last for years. Following the proper maintenance schedules recommended by the manufacturer, and keeping an eye on wear and tear on the hoses, should keep the clothes washer in peak operating shape for a long time. If you’re unsure about how the maintenance works, or if you would feel more comfortable having professional maintenance intervention, call in an appliance repair person. If it’s the hoses, Ben franklin Plumbing of Denver can handle that for you.

For all of your household plumbing requirements, call on the professionals of Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver. Serving the Denver metro area for over 30 years, Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver takes care of everything from minor plumbing repair and maintenance issues, to major repairs and emergencies. For complete details call 866-PUNCTUAL or 303-340-3400.        

DENVER, CO – While most homes these days are heated by gas forced air furnace systems – especially here in the west – some homes, multi-unit developments and many commercial buildings are heated with hot water systems tied to condensing, high efficiency boilers. Like every other mechanical device, these boiler systems require regular maintenance and occasionally in the winter some emergency service.

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver has been serving the greater metro area for over 30 years with expert plumbing services, and we can handle all of your hot water and steam heating needs. That starts with expert boiler repair, replacement and maintenance, and includes changes due to remodeling old boilers to more energy efficient models with electronic ignition and outdoor reset controls, to high-efficiency low temperature units with programmable thermostats.

Boiler systems require regular maintenance, and we recommend an annual check-up and cleaning to ensure the system stays in top shape. According to boiler manufacturers and heating engineers with boiler expertise, the heating elements in boiler systems can be subject to a build-up of soot. They report that even a small amount of soot buildup, even 1/16 of an inch, can deplete the boiler efficiency by as much as 25%. An annual cleaning will help prevent this from happening, keeping heating costs as low as possible.

Winter, however, presents its own potential problems for boilers. Because they are condensing machines, there is condensation and this can collect as water in the drainage pipes that are subject to freezing. Like other water pipes in the home, pipes that haven’t frozen before can and often do freeze depending on changing weather patterns and temperature swings that are different each year. We recommend that these boiler pipes – and any household plumbing – that are exposed to the outdoors or to outside walls subject to more extreme temperatures be insulated to protect from freezing. Also, it is wise to ensure that water pipes, especially those in basements, remain in an environment where the room temperature remains at least 55 degrees F.

If the pipe leading from the boiler gets a buildup of condensation and freezes, it could cause a blockage that might result in a leak from the boiler or even a shutdown of the boiler mechanism itself – a safety feature built into these systems.

Should a boiler shutdown occur, confirm that a frozen condensate drain pipe is the cause of shutdown. The condensate drainage pipe is a plastic pipe (typically grey or white in color) connected to the bottom of your boiler. Shutdown due to freezing and blockage of the condensate drainage pipe will usually be indicated by a “fault code” on the boiler’s digital display, although this may not specifically indicate freezing as the fault. Indication may also be given by some other alarm such as a flashing light, or by a symptom such as “gurgling” noises coming from the boiler.

If the following circumstances apply then it is probable that a frozen condensate drainage pipe is the cause:

• outside temperatures have been below freezing for some time.
• the condensate drainage pipe runs through the wall and outside the property for part of its length, without any increased pipe diameter, any insulation on it, or other measures to prevent freezing. There may also be a problem if the pipe runs through an enclosed but unheated area, such as a garage or loft.

Locate the blockage. It is likely that the pipe is frozen at the most exposed point external to the building or where there is some obstruction to flow. This could be at the open end of the pipe, at a bend or elbow, or where there is a dip in the pipe in which condensate can collect. The location of the blockage should be identified as closely as possible before taking further action.

Thaw the frozen pipe. The pipe can be thawed by applying a hot water bottle, a microwaveable heating pack (the sort used for muscular aches and pains) or cloths soaked in warm water to the exterior of the pipe, close to the likely point of blockage. Warm water can also be poured onto the pipe from a watering can or similar container. Do not use boiling water.

Reset/re-start the boiler. Once the blockage has been thawed and cleared, consult the boiler operating instructions or check the manufacturer’s website for guidance on any action needed to “reset” the fault code/alarm and re-start the boiler. In most cases, once the condensate drain pipe is cleared and a reset has been carried out, the boiler will re-ignite using an automatic operating sequence.

If this reset/restart does not succeed you should call in a professional like Benjamin Franklin Plumbing to assess the situation and take further action if required.

The plumbing pros at Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver can handle every boiler need, including assistance with unblocking condensate pipes, restarting boilers, and even adjusting cold radiators or one zone of baseboard not heating one room enough. Here’s a quick look at some of the boilers and issues Ben Franklin Plumbing of Denver can expertly address:

• Leak repair
• Digital/Programmable thermostats
• High efficient boilers
• Zone valves
• Pumps
• Expansion tank
• Boiler certification
• Yearly maintenance & cleaning
• Cast iron boilers
• Copper tub boilers
• Stainless steel boilers
• Pressure reducing valves
• Backflow preventers

Call 866-PUNCTUAL or 303-340-3400 for all of your boiler and plumbing needs.

Homeowners have a wide range of options to save money on heating costs, ranging from no-cost simple tasks and low-cost efficiency, to expensive efficiency boosters. 

DENVER, CO – The leaves have fallen, the nights are crisp and chilly, it is inevitable that cold snaps will set in periodically, and the snow will surely fly. It’s almost winter – officially that’s December 21 this year, at 4:38 p.m. Mountain Standard Time – so it’s a good time to ensure that your home is warm and cozy for the cold months ahead.

It’s also a good time to make sure that warmth and coziness comes at an economical cost, and there are many ways for homeowners to save on heating costs throughout the season.

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver has been providing top-notch plumbing services in the area for over 30 years, and earlier this year we launched a new service in response to customer demand: heating and cooling. That’s right, with our HVAC services, customers can enjoy a wide range of our typical high-quality work when it comes to a home’s furnace, air conditioning or swap cooler needs, and related tasks like duct work and thermostats. As such, we are experts at heating and cooling – and at keeping costs down related to the energy used for the home’s environment.

On a recent furnace inspection in Denver we shared a few of our money-saving tips for winter heating, and our customer suggested that she just may move the house to Florida. That would certainly save on heating costs, of course, but it would be very impractical. It does, however, illustrate that saving money on heating costs can run the gamut from no-cost and low-cost to the very expensive indeed.

It gave us the idea to break down the Tips for Saving on Heating Costs down to two lists: the simple stuff and the harder stuff. Every homeowner can save using the simple ideas, while the more elaborate things are a matter of budget and lifestyle. The extra good news is that most of these tips will also help save on cooling costs during the hot summer months so it’s a good idea to get them done.

The simple stuff:

• Turn the thermostat down. Sounds like a no-brainer, but the fact is that many people set their heating temperature too high when they are in the house, and way too high when they are away at work or school. If you have the discipline, turn the thermostat to the 68-degree range in the evening when people are active in the home, and turn it down to around 60 degrees when heading out for work. A programmable thermostat is recommended because it will automatically make these adjustments and time it so the home is warm when returning from work. The word is that you can save 1 percent to 3 percent on heating bills for every degree you turn the thermostat down, and that can be significant savings.
• Use space heaters. Turn the thermostat down several degrees and use a space heater to warm a favorite room, like a family room or den (follow the safety instructions).
• Close heat vents in unused rooms. Why heat the spare bedroom if no one is using it? This also works for sparingly used rooms like the dining room or living room.
• Shut the flue. It’s actually astonishing how many people fail to securely close the fireplace damper – which just sucks hot air out of the house. On older homes and homes where the fireplace gets a lot of use, soot buildup can keep the damper from fully closing; it, and the chimney, may need to be cleaned.
• Weather strip. Weather stripping around doors should be checked every fall and replaced if necessary; this foam-like material, available at any hardware store inexpensively, gets a lot of wear and tear with the door opening and closing, and from the weather. While you’re at it, check the threshold – that piece of aluminum or wood at the bottom of the door opening that usually features a rubber runner that seals air flow, sometimes called a door sweep. These wear out over time and need to be replaced periodically.
• Storm windows or winterized windows. If you have storm windows, put them on or have someone put them on, and make sure they are installed properly (tightly). For those without storm windows, there are window weatherization kits available at any hardware store inexpensively that are easy to install and do an adequate job.
• Caulk. Windows and door frames, as well as the chimney flashing and some lights and electrical outlets, are built into homes with the edges sealed by caulk, which dries up and loses its sealing capacity over time. Remove the old caulk, clean the area, and reseal these edges with fresh caulk. To find air leaks and drafts, pick a breezy day and hold a lit incense stick around openings; the smoke trail will give you an idea of the draftiest areas. 
• Adjust the water heater temperature. Our experience is that most people set their water heaters too high. They will work just fine for every use in the home set to a temperature of between 115 degrees and 120 degrees.
• Get curtains. Window coverings like blinds are attractive, but they don’t insulate. Curtains do, to varying degrees depending on the weight, blocking jot only cold air from coming in, but warm air going out as well. On sunny days you can open the curtains on the sunny side of the house and pick up some solar-heat boost.
• Furnace filter and maintenance. Simply cleaning or replacing the furnace filter every fall will keep the heating unit running at peak capacity. Most furnaces also require periodic maintenance (every three years) to make sure everything is working properly and that the workings are clean and dust free.
• Low-flow shower head. A water-efficient shower head – we’ve seen good ones ranging from $20 to $100 –can use 25% to 50% less hot water, and save both water and heating expense bills with little or no reduction in user satisfaction.

The harder stuff (more expense and sometime professional help):

• A new furnace. If your home’s furnace is older than 10 years, replacing it with a new one, particularly one rated as Energy Star will keep the home just as warm at about 85 percent of the energy use. The newer machines are simply more energy efficient.
• A new water heater. The newer, Energy Star water heaters are much more efficient than older models. Try a tankless water heater (we carry a great one, called GOHot) that heats water instantly when it’s needed but not all the time, a great energy-saving idea.
• Check the ducts. Most homes that heat by natural gas or propane have air ducts running throughout the home, ducts that are made in sections and sealed together. The joints often come undone or unsealed, which restricts air flow to the proper areas. The obvious ones, like in the basement or crawl space, can be easily fixed – don’t use duct tape, despite the name, because it withers; use metal-backed tape and or an aerosol sealant. Sometimes professional help is called for, and most HVAC contractors, like us, perform air duct checks and repairs. This is also good for the A/C.
• Insulate. Standards for insulation have changed over time and many older homes don’t have enough; a low R-value, as it is called. Attics are good places to start, as well as floors over unheated crawl spaces, and here the insulation can be beefed up using the fiberglass roll type or the blow-in foam type.
• Buy new windows. There are many really good, double- and triple-paned insulated windows on the market these days that are attractive and boost energy efficiency by a ton. This works for many doors too.
• Go solar. Heating hot water or boosting heating efficiencies with a solar application is becoming more popular all the time, and can be a huge savings on energy use. These systems are not inexpensive, although some utility company rebates and tax credits help a lot on the out-of-pocket, and many people are going in this direction for more than cost savings, but rather to lower their overall “carbon footprint.”

Many of these money-saving ideas for winter heating qualify for a variety of rebates from local utility companies and tax credits from the state and federal government. These programs often cover a portion of the cost of the product and the installation, even on simple things like insulation or weather stripping, but they vary widely by area, have caps or ending dates set into the enabling legislation. Check with the local utility and a tax advisor for the latest details.

For all of your plumbing needs – and now all of your HVAC needs as well – the trust name in Colorado is Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver. Call 866-PUNCTUAL or 303-340-3400 for complete details.

Winter is the harshest season on a home’s plumbing system, but with a few easy steps the most frequent seasonal plumbing problems can be avoided. And avoiding a plumbing problem when the temperatures dip well below freezing will not only ensure a worry-free winter with no disruption of lifestyle, it will also save any homeowner the expense of costly repairs.

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver has been serving this community for more than 30 years with a complete array of highly professional plumbing services, and we have seen more of our share of winter plumbing problems. The fact is that at some time pretty much every homeowner will experience a winter plumbing issue. But it’s also a fact that we get called out year after year for problems that could easily have been avoided with just a little homeowner due diligence.

One of the most critical things to remember is that just because your home hasn’t had any plumbing problems in several winters doesn’t mean you’ll be spared this year. Weather, temperatures, wind chill and moisture levels are different with every year and every storm and, well, stuff happens. The plumbing operation in your home is a dynamic system; things wear out over time.

Outside

First, it’s never too late to do the right thing. If you haven’t unhooked your garden hoses or turned off the outside water feeding outdoor faucets and the sprinkler system, do it now (it’s a good idea to have sprinkler systems blown out with an air compressor, and while it’s late in the season it can still be done). There are most likely shut-off valves on the pipes leading to these outlets in the basement or crawl space. Usually they also include a “bleeder” valve which, once the water has been turned off, is opened to drain the water from the faucet to the shut-off-valve, typically about a gallon. It’s simply a great idea to know where these shut-off valves are, and while you’re at it find the main shut-off valve to the whole house just in case you experience a frozen and bursting pipe.

Also while you’re at it, it’s a good idea to get a few insulation cones for the outside water faucets – available at any hardware store for a nominal cost – and cover them. They easily hook over the faucet and then tighten with a pull of a cord. Many people also cover their sprinkler system vacuum breaker system with an approved cover that came with the installation or with a blanket and a water-proof tarp for extra protection.

In the basement

Believe it or not, one of the more frequent problems we encounter in the early stages of winter are frozen pipes in the basement because someone has simply left the windows open. Make sure the basement windows are closed and secure, and for extra protection place storm windows on them (or get a window winterizer kit), and check the caulking around these windows and re-caulk if necessary.

Also, as plumbers we recommend that the temperature in the entire home be kept at least at 55 degrees to keep pipes from freezing – and this includes, and in fact is even more critical, in the basement. Keep in mind that this temperature level should be minimally maintained even if you’re away for an extended period of time.

Around the house

Another problem area for freezing pipes in underneath sinks in bathrooms and kitchens, and in the connectors to the washing machine in the laundry – and this is especially true if sink and laundry plumbing are located along an outside wall. You can wrap these pipes with insulating tape for some added protection, and on those very cold, single-digit or below nights it’s a good idea to leave cabinet doors open so the heat of the room is sure to keep the pipes warm enough.

Water heaters

It sound a little ridiculous that pipes around a water heater – or the water heater itself – might freeze, but it happens (remember, cold water goes in). Water heaters are often located in cold closets or in un-insulated basement utility rooms, so insulate the pipes. Also, make sure the nearby windows are secure and draft-free, and winterize where necessary. Water heaters also need routine maintenance – a flush and a check of the heating element – and now is as good a time as any to call in a licensed plumber to make sure everything is ship-shape. If the water heater is more than 10 years old it would also be a good idea to look into getting a new one – not only will this be protection against failure, but the new Energy Star units are far more energy efficient with the same heating capacity. (You can further look into the newer “tankless” hot water heaters which heat water on demand for an endless supply. Ben Franklin Plumbing carries its own exclusive brand, GOHot).

Of course, should a winter plumbing problem occur – and let’s be honest, they usually happen in the middle of the night – call Benjamin Franklin Plumbing of Denver for complete 24/7 emergency services. Complete details at 866-PUNCTUAL or 303-430-3400.